Bamboo arrow debate

This is where we discuss the bows, arrows, quivers and other hardware used in Asian archery.
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jack farrell
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Post by jack farrell » Fri Nov 19, 2010 3:15 pm

Daniel; This is a grand grouping of sticks! Are you saying that they are all within one half gram weight of eachother?

Are you going to make target arrows or field arrows of them?
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Orda Khan
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Post by Orda Khan » Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:20 pm

When considering orientation of the shaft, the eye at the node (if it is visible) should have the thinner, pointed end to the rear.
Daniel T.
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Post by Daniel T. » Fri Nov 19, 2010 4:58 pm

Jack, no, the maximum spread is 1 gram because I weighed the shafts and rounded to the nearest gram.
I am going to make them.. well, arrows.. What is the difference between a field and a target arrow?

Orda, from what I know about bamboo, this is the same as putting the nock at the thinner end, right?

Daniel
jack farrell
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Post by jack farrell » Fri Nov 19, 2010 5:38 pm

Daniel; A field arrow would be shot in a field, in the grass or in the woods. A miss could end in loosing that arrow. A contest at field (possibly 3-d) targets in the woods would end in missing arrows. You would have to balance quality against cost.

A target arrow would be shot at an established range where loosing the arrow would be unlikely. The main loss would be from arrows colliding with arrows already stuck in the target. These arrows would last a very long time and all one's skill and materials could be expended with little risk.

If one went hunting, these arrows would be in another class, heavy, perfect, and very expendable.

You could select some target arrows from the group before proceeding.

Are you having difficulty telling the head (nock end) from the foot (point end) ?

All within one gram weight is amazing. Congratulations Stiven Tiger.
Daniel T.
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Post by Daniel T. » Fri Nov 19, 2010 7:07 pm

I had not thought of that. Good point! I will certainly need some target shafts for winter practice, it is turning cold already.

About the orientation, I am just not sure if it is important. There is only about a difference of 1mm in diameter between head and foot, at least on the few where I measured.

I got 500 shafts, spined 60-65#. I have not established a precise count, but about 400 of them weighed from 26 to 29 grams (rounded, about 100 of each weight) the rest is mostly 25 and 30 grams and some weigh more or less than that. I have not checked the nodes on the other weight groups.

Daniel
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Sat Nov 20, 2010 2:43 am

jack farrell wrote:Daniel; A field arrow would be shot in a field, in the grass or in the woods. A miss could end in loosing that arrow. A contest at field (possibly 3-d) targets in the woods would end in missing arrows. You would have to balance quality against cost.

A target arrow would be shot at an established range where loosing the arrow would be unlikely. The main loss would be from arrows colliding with arrows already stuck in the target. These arrows would last a very long time and all one's skill and materials could be expended with little risk.

If one went hunting, these arrows would be in another class, heavy, perfect, and very expendable.

You could select some target arrows from the group before proceeding.

Are you having difficulty telling the head (nock end) from the foot (point end) ?

All within one gram weight is amazing. Congratulations Stiven Tiger.
i said i always improve the quality without end,so,buyers are always surprice to see my quality are amazing quality improved always each deal.
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Sat Nov 20, 2010 2:46 am

Daniel T. wrote:I had not thought of that. Good point! I will certainly need some target shafts for winter practice, it is turning cold already.

About the orientation, I am just not sure if it is important. There is only about a difference of 1mm in diameter between head and foot, at least on the few where I measured.

I got 500 shafts, spined 60-65#. I have not established a precise count, but about 400 of them weighed from 26 to 29 grams (rounded, about 100 of each weight) the rest is mostly 25 and 30 grams and some weigh more or less than that. I have not checked the nodes on the other weight groups.

Daniel
one thing is confirmed,when we produce more and more,the quality is better and better,we say:more pratice become experts and easily and naturally and autumaticlly
jack farrell
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Post by jack farrell » Sat Nov 20, 2010 3:23 am

Daniel; Find the center of balance and see if the foot is heavier than the head. It should be.
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Sat Nov 20, 2010 2:07 pm

jack farrell wrote:Daniel; Find the center of balance and see if the foot is heavier than the head. It should be.
advice you should first add arrow head and fletch and than balance them,but when you shoot,you should up little bow.yes?
vaired disctance shoot you should up little varied and find out best precise position and more practice to fix the position and adjust it become finally shoot ar center.right?
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Orda Khan
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Post by Orda Khan » Mon Nov 22, 2010 1:12 pm

I would always fit the point to the foot of the shaft.

Judging by the average weight of those shafts, there is little if any difference between shafts of 45-50 and 60-65.

It seems to be luck of the draw how robust each arrow is. With two misses yesterday, from a 42# Hwarang I had two results ...

First miss was an inch over the target into plywood :shock: Digging the arrow out took quite some time, half an inch in and I found the back of the tip. The tip is inch and a quarter long brass bullet type, it had gone through the plywood overshoot and into the wooden frame behind it. I got this arrow out intact.

Second miss hit a silver birch root, just below the target. This arrow suffered badly, it had split in half along its entire length and snapped through to this split mid shaft.
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Tue Nov 23, 2010 1:16 am

Orda Khan wrote:I would always fit the point to the foot of the shaft.

Judging by the average weight of those shafts, there is little if any difference between shafts of 45-50 and 60-65.

It seems to be luck of the draw how robust each arrow is. With two misses yesterday, from a 42# Hwarang I had two results ...

First miss was an inch over the target into plywood :shock: Digging the arrow out took quite some time, half an inch in and I found the back of the tip. The tip is inch and a quarter long brass bullet type, it had gone through the plywood overshoot and into the wooden frame behind it. I got this arrow out intact.

Second miss hit a silver birch root, just below the target. This arrow suffered badly, it had split in half along its entire length and snapped through to this split mid shaft.
if theyare 2 of wooden arrows or bamboo arrows from markhill?if yes,they are may be made by arrow bamboo which is thinner wall and now we cancel to use such thinner wall of bamboo specie and use only tonkin
bamboo
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Orda Khan
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Post by Orda Khan » Tue Nov 23, 2010 11:39 am

Hello Tiger,
Yes it seems the original shafts are a bit unpredictable, some break easily and some are quite tough. Of course when an arrow is deflected in flight by a branch, anything can happen, just as hitting the ground where there may be stones beneath.
I was very impressed with the first arrow that missed. It was nearly two inches deep, through an inch of plywood and into the wooden frame and it survived unharmed. It took me about fifteen minutes to cut it out :roll:
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Wed Nov 24, 2010 2:51 am

Orda Khan wrote:Hello Tiger,
Yes it seems the original shafts are a bit unpredictable, some break easily and some are quite tough. Of course when an arrow is deflected in flight by a branch, anything can happen, just as hitting the ground where there may be stones beneath.
I was very impressed with the first arrow that missed. It was nearly two inches deep, through an inch of plywood and into the wooden frame and it survived unharmed. It took me about fifteen minutes to cut it out :roll:
now all bamboo shafts are made by tonkin which is very thicker wall and very very stiff and i feel their quality is superb than japanan and korean which they just polish than by hand and only 1 heating process which is not uniforn spine for each direction( i guess),why so higher price:just total 100% hand sand,why still to use this way?we use 95% sand by machine,just hand sand for adjust them little,i guess their hand work cost too much and price is very expensive and less 1 important process:carbonation which make shaft uniform spine.
J-Boon
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Post by J-Boon » Wed Nov 24, 2010 3:12 am

I found this link on Youtube, it features a Japanese Bamboo arrow maker. I thought of sharing it with the rest of everyone in the forum. I thought bamboo arrow enthusiast like Tiger might enjoy the videos.

Its a 3 part series on Japanese bamboo making arrow.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyejbipavWw

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdB59FWQpN8

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0Nbb7g9jTQ

By the way, you can save the videos to your hardisk using the web based service SAVETUBE: http://www.savetube.com

I like Tigers philosophy where he is making good bamboo shaft available to the majority of people with his prices, unlike overprice Japanese sources (everything in Japan is expensive *cough*) which in all honesty cater to only the 'elite' few. Sure, I can buy Japanese bamboo arrows, but for about US$780 for six ? thats way overboard in my opinion

Anyway, personally I'm interested in Tigers bamboo shafts, however, I will be leaving Australia for the whole of December, and can't place an order because no one will be in Australia around to collect it. I intent to order from Tiger when I get back to Australia in January and try them out. By the way, Tiger is your ebay id stmmrr1968 and your store first bird bamboo craft?
stiventiger
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Post by stiventiger » Wed Nov 24, 2010 4:45 am

J-Boon wrote:I found this link on Youtube, it features a Japanese Bamboo arrow maker. I thought of sharing it with the rest of everyone in the forum. I thought bamboo arrow enthusiast like Tiger might enjoy the videos.

Its a 3 part series on Japanese bamboo making arrow.

Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyejbipavWw

Part 2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdB59FWQpN8

Part 3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0Nbb7g9jTQ

By the way, you can save the videos to your hardisk using the web based service SAVETUBE: http://www.savetube.com

I like Tigers philosophy where he is making good bamboo shaft available to the majority of people with his prices, unlike overprice Japanese sources (everything in Japan is expensive *cough*) which in all honesty cater to only the 'elite' few. Sure, I can buy Japanese bamboo arrows, but for about US$780 for six ? thats way overboard in my opinion

Anyway, personally I'm interested in Tigers bamboo shafts, however, I will be leaving Australia for the whole of December, and can't place an order because no one will be in Australia around to collect it. I intent to order from Tiger when I get back to Australia in January and try them out. By the way, Tiger is your ebay id stmmrr1968 and your store first bird bamboo craft?
Thank you very much for your kindly offer,but i can't open the links,if you can upload them into:
http://photobucket.com/
which is free rigistrate.japanese bamboo arrow is crazy expensive,just for their total hand sanding bamboo shafts(also without carbonation process by machine),they sell so higher crazy price for their 1000years ago technology,i know bamboo shafts hand sanding is very boring work compare hand sand their little brother,but unreasonble price will let 99.9% buyers far away from bamboo arrows.
my finally aim is let each archery player can have at least 12 pcs in their quiver for shoot trainning or hunting or fun shoot even game shooting.
hope you can start your business asap,my run business is also let more people become rich enough to run their business smoothly and easily worldwide.it's idea is also come from chinese culture again:real happy come from commen people happy.not alonge happy,(独乐,与众乐,孰乐?)
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