right tiller for turkish hornbow

[cosmos]

First I want to introduce myself as a new member in the Atarn forum. I started shooting with bow and arrow 2 years ago with a olympic recurve bare bow. Last winter I tested my skills as bowyer by building an all wooden laminated longbow with ?Perry reflex?. The bow is still working and shows after one year occasionally shooting only a reasonable set of about 2 cm. Since octobre last year I changed completely on the traditional side with a turkish hornbow from Grozer. This short and handy bow is still fascinating me in terms of performance and shooting comfort.
Now the question, what amount of tiller is suitable to balancing the momentum caused through the difference in height between the pressure point of the bow hand (nearly the geometrical centre of the bow) and the gripping point on the bowstring (slightly below the nocking point, approximately 20 mm above the centre of the grip with my three finger release)?
On my bow the tiller is about 4mm (to determine the tiller, I measured the distance between the belly and the string 10cm from the center of the grip on the lower and upper limb).

regards

cosmos

[Dusan]

See here mayne this help you .

http://atarn.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1200

[cosmos]

Thank you, Dusan for answering. It's a very interesting post about limb corrections with heat treading.
But my question was, wether it is normal practice in turkish horn bows that the lower limb is slightly stiffer than the upper limb or if completely balanced limbs would be preferred.
In my experience from olympic recurve bows, with a finger position on the string slightly above the pressure point of the bow hand, the lower limb ist chosen a little bit stiffer than the upper one.

[Jos?Dom]

Yes, you can use a hornbow either at perfect balance or with a stiffer lower limb but not too much, not more than 1 inch difference. It's good to check and correct that often, even between shooting sessions, as long as necessary.

[Bede]

Generally, when you brace a composite bow, on limb or the other will bend slightly more than the other. You can correct this or, if it is not too extreme, use the weaker limb as the upper.

I have found using a thumb ring and shooting off the bow-hand thumb that there is little difference. With the thumb draw, it is possible to nock at right angles to the string if you have the web between the thumb and forefinger pressed just above the chelik. Since the thumb of the bow hand is relaxed, it can absorb any momentary downwards pressure on release. Of course, if the bow is severely out of balance or the nocking point is too low, you will risk the feathers breaking the skin.

[cosmos]

Thank you JoseDom and Bede for your information.

With a difference of the distances from limb to string of 4mm between the lower and the upper limb I will leave the bow uncorrected and use the weaker limb as the upper. But I will observe the tiller as it remains stable.

[Bede]

That is an important point. The tiller of the bow may become more extreme the longer it is strung. If you string the bow and either correct it in the first 30 seconds or leave it if it looks good, you must give it several minutes to stabilise before shooting. I usually leave the bow alone for twenty minutes. The Koreans sometimes tie the bow bag around the bow to hold the curves in place while the bow stabilises. The Turks and other Middle Eastern people had small loops to slip over the ends of the bow temporarily to hold the kasans in the correct position to the string while the bow settled. This isn't necessary at all times for all bows, but it is a useful idea if a bow misbehaves.

[cosmos]

Thank you for the information Bede. In the past I have strung the bow and have drawn it about ten times with increasing draw length to full draw for ?warming up? but I have neclected a sufficent stabilising time. In the future I will give the bow sufficient time to settle before shooting.