Kind of Turkish from Finland

Adam Karpowicz · Post by **Adam Karpowicz** » Thu Mar 14, 2013 9:54 am

You can heat for longer than 10 minutes, but absolutely at no more than 50deg (if the humidity is high enough, the glue vcan melt in the bow above that). Your bow should be very stable once finished, since the string does not touch the tips below the nocks. The reflex in the sals will make it a fast bow.

Adam

J Menna · Post by **J Menna** » Wed May 01, 2013 9:59 pm

Ok, finally something happens here in far North. Snow is melted and shooting is started...

Heat tillering is amazing when I find the way to do it right. In the end, no twist at all!!! Wow. In whole process, I learn to use fish glue. My matching grooves are working... oh, la laa.
Now I have what I dreamed, my first, shootable, "kind of Turkish bow"...
That was the good news.

Bad news tells us it?s not very fast bow. It also quite weak and lazy one. I call it "lazy bastard".
Maybe somethin around 40lbs.
I use very short draw, about 23 inches. That`s just my "North american indian style" to shoot. (picture) Hard to learn longer draw.

I am happy it`s workin`, but unhappy to results. My sinew backed bows (blackfoot and nez perce tribes style, yew and ash whit sinew) are much faster and more efficient ones. (And those were also simple, faster, easier to do, maybe two months and ready to shoot...)
Anyway, first Turkish one in Finland is done. I have started the another one. Of course!

Ok, what I did wrong?
I was working too hard in tillerin` process and finally in bright light I could see lightly the maple grooves through horn belly in kasan eye section...
So, the grooves are 2mm deep and there is maybe 0,6-1mm horn still on grooves, but anyway, horn is now too thin in kasan eye.
I use to measure for while where I am going whit thickness, but that accident just happened. And you know, another side heavier and soon the another, and so it goes...
I didn`t trust to materials enough (for me new: fish glue and horn) and my carpenter skills... I had all the time feelin` it will broke in pieces.
And also the bent should be more close to grip than in kasan eye are? Am I right? Done is done.

I am just wondering is there any idea to make one more sinew layer over kasan eye area? And then try to move bending area to middle of sal.
Also kasan is little bit too heavy, I think.
Whit that artificial respiration it can probably shoot better...?

What you think?

J Menna · Post by **J Menna** » Wed May 01, 2013 10:01 pm

Something +20 inch draw...

radius · Post by **radius** » Thu May 02, 2013 3:13 am

i like it, but i think your next several inches of draw would be best to come from the inner sal portion, closer to the handle. essentially extend the bend you already have and take some pressure off the hinging areas

J Menna · Post by **J Menna** » Thu May 02, 2013 6:52 am

Yes, that`s what I thought to do if I continue whit this "lazy bastard".

Anyway, is it good idea at all to cover "the hing/kasan eye area"/ whit one extra layer of sinew?
I mean, is it worth of trying...?

lukasznawalny · Post by **lukasznawalny** » Thu May 02, 2013 7:55 am

too small angle between "tip" and " kasan" . Such model have stacking effect and poor energy storage, so will be slow. But working hornbow is allways succes, congrats

mikekeswick · Post by **mikekeswick** » Fri May 03, 2013 6:43 am

Yes your bow appears to be bending in only a small section of the limbs. You could try adding sinew to this area but you may have problems with it delaminating - it would have to feather perfectly and also the area to be glued to would need to be absolutely clean. Still the layer would run out in the middle of sal, once it was bending correctly I would be scared of the strands lifting.
It may be better to reduce the horn in the sal area until you have a better tiller and then sinew the whole bow (maybe not kasans) with another layer. However adding sinew won't add too much draw weight. It may be a better idea to just concentrate on your next bow.

Adam Karpowicz · Post by **Adam Karpowicz** » Fri May 03, 2013 9:43 am

You can make another bow out of this one; cut about half of the limbs and splice in (V-splice) two new all-wood siyahs, shaped whichever way you like. The V-splice can be wrapped with sinew for strength (not always necessary I found if well done and the bow is not too strong) and the new bow re-tillered.

Adam

Martti Auer · Post by **Martti Auer** » Tue May 07, 2013 5:25 pm

Could the lazy cast depend on that the bending sections are now little bit too far away from handle section?

Martti Auer · Post by **Martti Auer** » Wed May 08, 2013 11:31 pm

Could the lazy cast can be explained also that Menna did not bring the tips together at all or not very close to each other during the seasoning process, tips being rather far away from each other?