Bj?rn's Magyar Bow

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Sat May 10, 2014 8:59 am

Recently I picked up a core that I discarded a year ago. The glueing of grip piece went bad back then and I put the whole thing aside.

After going through the bows that Botondbow made and the pdf, I kinda wanted to pick it up again and see if I can re-use the whole thing.

The core (hard maple) was soaked again, then steamed, new grip piece glued in and siyahs attached with a 5cm V-splice. I still need to add pieces of wood to the transition to core/siyah at the backside.

Following the pdf, I thought to make the bow 136cm measured along the belly, width at 3,5cm. Siyahs 24cm long atm, made of birch (need to make them lighter). Sadly, I noticed too late that the angle at the grip is a bit too steep (140?).

The plan is to make a light bow. Something between 40-50#

What do you think? Go ahead or discard it for good? What dimensions (width & thickness) would you recommend?

Arry · Post by **Arry** » Sat May 10, 2014 10:22 am

Go ahead!

I am quite sure the nomads of yore did the best out of the stuff that was available. And if you are going for 40-50lbs, I don't think there is too much that can go seriously wrong.

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Sat May 10, 2014 12:27 pm

Should work with 140 but I would cut it out and reduce the angle with dry heat. Than glue it up again. 150-160 degree is enough. Less angle less stress on the sal.
The siyah joint looking too short for me. 7cm long would say the minimum.

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Sat May 10, 2014 7:48 pm

I assumed the tip splice of 2" or 5cm was ok accoding to the Moshcheveya Balka bow schematic by Andrew Hall, and I also was struggling to find wood of a format that would allow for a longer splice.

Anyway, I removed the riser and found a piece of oak that would do (birch would also be available). What I didn't mention is, that I moved to shape the grip yesterday before the post, leaving the core there with 1,5cm width. So hopefully nothing will break when I use dry heat as you suggested. How hot would you suggest? Something over 100?C?

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Tue May 13, 2014 4:38 pm

Dry heat bending was successful. No twist so far. Everything looking good. The oak riser was glued in today after I left the core in the form for a day.

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Wed May 14, 2014 7:35 am

Ok :wink:

This is a very shematic pic (an old one), how could cut the siyah out.
Much better if the wood is natural curved and the cut is paralell with the curve. But schould boil the wood and bend it to a form.

Usually the shape of the siyah is slight curved, not straight like on the pic.

Those antler plates are original. Have a few type of form this is one of tham.

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Wed May 14, 2014 8:27 am

Thanks, I already gave thought to the shape of the siyahs, and drew a few possible versions. My wife has a lamination machine (or however those thingies are called), which I'll use to make templates and then just trace the form on the wood.

I will definitely build one of these bows again, no matter how this one will turn out.

The siyah in your picture, is that ash?

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Wed May 14, 2014 8:55 am

Yes thats ash. Fraxinus ornus

The core is the same. It works

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Wed May 14, 2014 9:27 am

Found some better pics just couldn' t post. Something wrong . This sendfrom my phone.

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Wed May 14, 2014 8:36 pm

try it again... :roll:

...

Had tryed more than 10 times this day and now for the 3. th it worked.
Dont know why it hapenned?

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Thu May 15, 2014 8:34 am

The site was a bit slow in the last days, I had problems with pictures too. Maybe somebody worked on the code or there was maintenance or an update over at the host.

So how does this look?

fusizoli · Post by **fusizoli** » Thu May 15, 2014 11:56 am

The joint have to 7-8 cm long. The siyah angle is between 30-45 degree depends the angle of the grip. From 180 degree is less (30) up to 150 degree which allow the more reflexed siyah. Otherwise it needs a stringpad or a very high braceheight.

On the last pic is the two on the top will be an old mongol and the bottom is a magyar core.
Schould follow the siyah forms. The lenght is different.
Here is an article from the magyar bow. Schould follow the dimensions.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0ByUPYjQ ... view?pli=1

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Thu May 15, 2014 1:03 pm

I made the dimensions according to P?ter Bencsik's pdf. Agreed, those splices aren't ideal, but they're already done, and if I cut new ones, it will make the bow alot shorter (like too short). Anyway, it's too late for this correction. I will do it right in the next core.

jkekoni · Post by **jkekoni** » Mon May 26, 2014 7:57 am

I would say that the ear wood grain configuration is not ideal, since the angle is the place where it is most likely to break.

I think one should make the grain better at that point with the expense of the rest of the ear.

Bj?rn Sofeit · Post by **Bj?rn Sofeit** » Tue May 27, 2014 6:47 pm

A grown knee like that would be ideal, but living in a city, this is out of reach. Unless I pack a saw and go hiking.

Francesco inspired me to make forms for ears made out of 2 thin laths. Not authentic, but efficient. Lots of leftovers can be reused now.