Orda Khan wrote:Hello Tiger. A lot of posts, I'll see if I can answer some of your questions. The bamboo shafts I have used are Pseudosasa Japonica from my own garden, 'Tiger' shafts and those from Mark Hill.
The shafts from Mark Hill had a large difference in weight range, a considerable number of grams difference. No doubt he is an English traditional archer and arrow spine is so important, they try to treat bamboo the same as wood. Anyway, these shafts are ok, not absolutely straight (they needed some attention) and there does appear to be some evidence of fibre damage (faint cracks) from initial straightening on some.
My own is obviously limited in supply. The species appears to be lighter in weight, I was making finished arrows with total weight of around 400 grains, about 26 grams. I was able to get these very straight and my wife still has a small set that are perfectly straight after years. I prepared these by hand, as you say it is very hard work sanding each one.
The Tiger shafts I bought were very good, straighter than the others and the node spacing matched quite well. The weight was more evenly matched although I only had four to examine. They seem darker in colour so not sure if this is due to baking or just species. These shafts, in my opinion, are better than those from Mark Hill.
Jack's diagram shows good node placement, obviously the nodes will not line up perfectly. I agree with you about the length, 33 inches is much better as wooden shafts are 32" as standard and these are not long enough. Good node placement will allow shafts to be shortened anyway.
We'll see what others think but I would add selling by weight rather than spine.
the fact that Mark Hill is come from also my first period bamboo shafts which is made by chinese arrow bamboo( not tonkin bamboo),but we think it is thin bamboo wall and easy break and too tapered shape,and than we abandon this specie and to use tonkin bamboo which is thick wall and very stiff( i always want to make very stiff to let user many repeat use without damage)and little taper which look more beautiful.
but i also think weight is not so important compare with spine,as tonkin bamboo is hollow,when it fly,it is shown float fly like ship on water:even heavey tonkin weight,i image its fly speed still faster than same weight of wood.as wood is solid,it is sunk fly,not float,i shoort bamboo arrow,and it show almost same line and very faster speed;almost fly to atrget straightly(i shoot 20meter)
Jack's diagram is easy for me to realise,just to make them 33" long:to leave enough space for arrow maker to adjust their correct longth,that is also my originaa design thinking:to leave more space,as person have
vaired right longth of arrow.
if 30" will limit arrow maker room to satisfying vaired user requests.
,i think most important of Jack's diagram:to leave flat and smooth last nodes at least 20-30cm to make fletch become easy work:without the nodes which neasr nock 1.5-3cm:that is no meaning,as use thread or glue nock will enhence the arrow shafts enough:no split the nock even 1000time repeat shoot.also ytanditional horn insert nock is already flow into the market in future:this will become more easy for arrow maker:just put they loved fltech on and no do nock any more,also price is so economic:to save many time and money for nock making
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