Chinese crossbow replica
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Romain
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- Location: Beijing
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
View of the cocked mechanism. It works very smoothly.
You can also see the quarrels, 10 of them. 2 feathers, no nock at the back, they are quite heavy (515 grains or 33,5 grams) and long (64 cm from the back up to the back end of the field points)
You can also see the quarrels, 10 of them. 2 feathers, no nock at the back, they are quite heavy (515 grains or 33,5 grams) and long (64 cm from the back up to the back end of the field points)
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
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Romain
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 1:28 am
- Location: Beijing
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Romain
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rob
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Russ Mitchell
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Romain
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I don't know if you can say "draw length" about a crossbow, but let say that the distance between the nut indentation that keep the string and the tip of the stock is 64 cm -> 25"
Now, the total length where the string pushes the arrow (between the nut and the fistmele) is 46 cm -> 18"
It's because of this long course that the speed of the quarrels is quite decent, considering the low draw weight.
Now, the total length where the string pushes the arrow (between the nut and the fistmele) is 46 cm -> 18"
It's because of this long course that the speed of the quarrels is quite decent, considering the low draw weight.
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West
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- Location: Winchester, Hampshire, England
Yes, I wonder why European crossbows used extremely short draws... The longer draw is considerably more efficient, and shoots a longer projectile = higher sectional density (and in theory, greater penetration.) I made a long draw crossbow with a much simpler mechanism of wood and antler, and it can easily outrange and out-penetrate my European style crossbows (of roughly the same kind of mechanism). For comparison, the longer draw, "Chinese" style, had a draw of 14", compared to 8" for the European styles, at around 140# each. (All had wooden prods.)
On a side note, it's curious that your quarrels don't have nocks, Romain. I'd have thought that the advantage of that mechanism, aside from ease of pulling the trigger, was that you could nock the quarrels onto the string prior to shooting.
On a side note, it's curious that your quarrels don't have nocks, Romain. I'd have thought that the advantage of that mechanism, aside from ease of pulling the trigger, was that you could nock the quarrels onto the string prior to shooting.
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jaroslaw
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- Bede
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Early European crossbows had a long draw too, but when they changed from wooden to composite bows, the draw became shorter. Later steel bows also had short draws.
Because of the short power stroke, the bows were made heavier (I have seen pictures of bows with pulls over 2000 pounds).
I think the European design was intended to make the crossbows smaller and more convenient in enclosed spaces like castles, but the weapons actually became heavy and cumbersome. The great draw weights meant devices to mechanically pull the string were used.
Because of the short power stroke, the bows were made heavier (I have seen pictures of bows with pulls over 2000 pounds).
I think the European design was intended to make the crossbows smaller and more convenient in enclosed spaces like castles, but the weapons actually became heavy and cumbersome. The great draw weights meant devices to mechanically pull the string were used.
Bede
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Romain
- Posts: 251
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I have asked advices around and nobody confirmed that I should carve nocks... I might try a few experiments myself, just to be sure.On a side note, it's curious that your quarrels don't have nocks, Romain. I'd have thought that the advantage of that mechanism, aside from ease of pulling the trigger, was that you could nock the quarrels onto the string prior to shooting.
