how do string

The Lobotomizer · Post by **The Lobotomizer** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 8:59 am

I'm receiving one of these bows you people love as a gift (A Mongolian style recurve, with string bridges).

How are these things strung? I've always used a recurve and longbow stringer, but the pouches can't fit over that big fat siyahs. Has anyone tried making a stringer with fatter pouches?

Otherwise, how should I do it? Can I take it into my instep?

Lastly, do these bows have a top and bottom limb? It all looks the same to me.

Thanks for the advice. I'm just paranoid about bows exploding after having a limb delaminate on me a few weeks ago.

johnny.winter · Post by **johnny.winter** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 6:13 pm

Look at Czaba Grozer?s page (click "usage"): http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_m.htm

jw

Uli · Post by **Uli** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 9:38 pm

maybe needless to say but you can avoid bending the bow too much by not pulling the string over all of the siyah lenght, coming from the concave side of the bow but instead coming from the convex side: therefore put the siyah into the leather leashes of the string before bending the bow.. got it?

by the way, I dont think this type of bow (natural materials?) will delaminate suddenly, it might feel more like giving way like wax.. see topic "hornbow crash" - or does somebody have another opinion ?

Stephen Selby · Post by **Stephen Selby** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:26 am

johnny.winter wrote:Look at Czaba Grozer?s page (click "usage"): http://www.grozerarchery.com/index_m.htm

jw

Please do not do it like that. (Even Csaba Grozer agrees). Please do it like this:

The Lobotomizer · Post by **The Lobotomizer** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:49 am

Uli wrote:maybe needless to say but you can avoid bending the bow too much by not pulling the string over all of the siyah lenght, coming from the concave side of the bow but instead coming from the convex side: therefore put the siyah into the leather leashes of the string before bending the bow.. got it?

I think so. Do you mean to put the string over the limb, and slide it into the siyah, rather than pulling over the siyah while stringing?

by the way, I dont think this type of bow (natural materials?) will delaminate suddenly, it might feel more like giving way like wax.. see topic "hornbow crash" - or does somebody have another opinion ?

I think it's just a natural/synthetic composite, like low-end modern bows and "traditional" flatbows.

I do want a natural horn bow, but they're all expensive and apparently are only made in Hungary, since every commercial bowyer seems to live there. I probably won't have the money until after college.

I also want to see if there are any local groups who are into these types of bows, and happen to shoot some hornbows I can find from the larger dealers, so I can give a few different types a try and see what I like, then order the same type.

Please do not do it like that. (Even Csaba Grozer agrees). Please do it like this:

So do you guys pay people to follow you everywhere and help you string your bows?

Uli · Post by **Uli** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 1:15 pm

Yep thats what I meant...And dont tell me you dont have your bow stringing buddy at your side man, everybody has, its just like playing golf.

PS: you can get a "natural" hornbow from Mongolia for 250 Euro I think.

What do ATARN members think of selling those bows in Europe and Texas ?
Cause I probably could organize that, but I am aware of ethical remarks..

Fox · Post by **Fox** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 1:42 am

If you want to see the stringing method in life, go to Alam ed Din new post at GENERAL DISCUSSION. At the middle of the video you find the mongolian bower stringing his bow with two knees on the limb. However, they put the string loop round the limb instead of running free.

In fact that was a good movie that everyone (especially horseback archers) should watch.

Fox

Russ Mitchell · Post by **Russ Mitchell** » Tue Oct 11, 2005 2:59 pm

I might be able to sell some here, though it'd be dicey at first while I look for customers.

I have not yet managed to successfully use this knee/two-knee stringing on any but my lightest bow. Is there a trick?

Stephen Selby · Post by **Stephen Selby** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 1:16 am

[quote="I have not yet managed to successfully use this knee/two-knee stringing on any but my lightest bow. Is there a trick?[/quote]

You need to know how to squat. If you don't, then lean back against something or sit on a stool.

Make sure that your helper understands what to de before you start the maneuver.

Place both knees against the grip. Make sure your hands are as close to the siyahs as you can stretch. Don't forget that you must grip the bow limb with your palms facing upwards. String one end first, and hold the loose string against the other string bridge with your thumb. Pull back with the full weight of your back.

This action is the first thing I teach students in my archery classes. They usually take a few tries to get over their fear of the bow and the unfamiliarity of the action. Although it is not always convenient to have to string a bow with a helper, it's the 'safest' way. 'Step-though- stringing carries a high risk of twisting to the bow-limbs. With a very recurved bow, it may not be possible at all.

S.

Russ Mitchell · Post by **Russ Mitchell** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 2:18 am

Stephen Selby wrote: 'Step-though- stringing carries a high risk of twisting to the bow-limbs. With a very recurved bow, it may not be possible at all.

S.

Yeah, I noticed that I can't string the 78@28" (Grozer TRH Laminalt) via the step-through method without twist unless I slide off my boot. Otherwise I lack the tactile sense to pull it off.

MUCH obliged.

Bede · Post by **Bede** » Wed Oct 12, 2005 3:56 am

Most of the shorter heavily recurved bows can be strung using the cross legged position in Thomas Duvernay's video on Korean bow making.

However, it requires flexibility and strength to do and I do not recommend it to people for use on valuable bows until they are experienced with it. I think the safest way to practise it is to use the method to unstring bows first until you are used to the stresses and feel comfortable with the actions.

It is not suitable for long composites because of the lack of leverage.

Stephen's assisted method is the best. Dr Grayson uses it with Turkish and Korean bows. I use it on my composite bow too, though I have used the cross-legged method, but I thought my eyes were going to pop out of my head. I am working on my flexibility.

The Lobotomizer · Post by **The Lobotomizer** » Tue Oct 18, 2005 11:47 pm

The bow came yesterday. I was surprised at how fast it shot, and how quietly! Someday I'd love to take it out to the middle of nowhere to see just how far I can get an arrow with it.

I originally picked up an old work glove to protect my knuckle, but took it off because I couldn't get a good grip on the bow and the size was causing my hand to cramp. Is there any way I can create callouses on the knuckle without having to cut it open with a fletching? Or would a proper shooting glove be a worthwhile investment?

Stephen Selby · Post by **Stephen Selby** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 2:13 am

Is there any way I can create callouses on the knuckle without having to cut it open with a fletching? Or would a proper shooting glove be a worthwhile investment?

I'm not sure which shooting style you are using. Supposing you are using a thumb draw and the arrow passes to the outside of the grip over your thumb knuckle: then you should depress your wrist and bring your thumb and forefinger together around the grip. That forms a little 'V' over which the arrow passes.

Bede · Post by **Bede** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 4:22 am

Another problem can occur if the thumb and index finger are tensed. I think this applies to both styles of shooting.

I was shooting with a longbow archer on Sunday and he was using a glove on his bow hand. Even after he adjusted the nocking point higher, he still had some problems. I was worried that the lower limb was to stiff and pulling the nock of the arrow down during release.

When I shoot with a thumbring, I have no nocking point on the string and I try to use nocks that do not grip the string to tightly. I can normally shoot even with the feather parallel to the string pointing downwards. The only marks I have on the bow hand thumb are from dirt on the arrow shaft. If I tense my thumb or nock low, I can scratch the skin.

The Lobotomizer · Post by **The Lobotomizer** » Wed Oct 19, 2005 1:04 pm

I'm using a Mediterranean release. It seems that a feather will inevitably pass over my finger, which is what's doing all the cutting.

how do string

how do string

Stringing