String bow

Sharparrows · Post by **Sharparrows** » Wed Nov 23, 2005 2:55 am

Im making a sinew backed hop hornbeam static recurve. So far I have made the basic shape and have recurved the tips. Once I apply the sinew I would like somewere around 3" of reflex after breaking in.

But this is my first recurve and reflexed bow and I have no idea how to string it properly. I see that you can use a sort of jig to do it but I don't want to have to bother carrying it around. So is there a method of stringing a reflexed and recurved bow over your body? Or can you just use a stringer?

On my last bow I made a special groove that allows me to use a rope to string the bow and darn is it ever so easy! Btw this is my first post

jack farrell · Post by **jack farrell** » Sat Nov 26, 2005 1:30 am

Matt; Welcome to our group. Tepleks are for initial conditioning of horn bows. I have never used them on a backed bow. There are pages of different techniques for bracing composite bows; a backed bow is a composite. The common step-through method is ancient and acceptible for bows with short siyahs (recurves). Though it is dangerous to use on many hornbows due to the danger of twisting the ends.

Did you know that there are two Hophornbeams? One has a noticably fluted trunk and is a poor bow wood; known as American Hh. The other has lots of hairy moss growing on the bark, is a superior bow wood, and known as Wooly American Hh.

The second is a tannish colored wood almost identical to Hickory, at least those from Texas are. -j-

Stephen Selby · Post by **Stephen Selby** » Sat Nov 26, 2005 3:01 am

I appreciate that you don't want to make a complicated jig; but I don't recommend just doing a simple, step-through when you are dealing with a brand new bow. This is especially the case when the weight and structure of the bow remains uncertain.

I saw this method used by some Mongolians and I think it's a good one.

They found an long, narrow and flat surface (some iron railings with a flat top outside my house.) Then they found a couple of building bricks about six inches high each (i.e. the total is higher than the planned brace height), placed them atop each-other on the flat top of the railing, put a cloth over the top and placed the grip of the bow over the bricks with the back of the bow facing up.

Two people could then press down on the siyahs and use cords to tie them down around the top of the railing. The bow was then braced without a string.

After that, they made a measurement to ascertain the length of string required, made the string and strung the bow. One person lifted the grip off the bricks and took them away. The other passed one string loop through one string nock, through the loops of cord, around the brick and over the other nock. Finally, they untied the cords.

Hope this is clear.

Sharparrows · Post by **Sharparrows** » Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:13 am

Thanks for the replies guys. I wasn't going for the step through method anyways, seems suicide on a composite bow doesn't it? I was thinking of putting the bow through my legs and pulling the top limb up. Since the bow is between my legs that should prevent it form twisting.

About the 2 types of hop hornbeam. I dont think mine is american hop hornbeam since im in Canada

I cut mine in Ontario its scientific name is Ostrya virginiana, and is very heavy, hard and strong. It did have some mossy stuff on the flaky bark. For a wood that is very HARD to split it must be a good bow wood. Well hopefully.

jack farrell · Post by **jack farrell** » Sat Nov 26, 2005 4:34 pm

Now I am not trying to advocate the use of the step-through method for stringing of horn bows. But it is described in Arab archery as the "Military Method" of stringing a bow. Many other methods are preferrable.

I like that Mongolian method. To my thinking, the Chinese, two man method would provide a four-point support even superior.

Ps. Sharp Arrow. Canada is in America. North America. -j-

redhawk · Post by **redhawk** » Sat Nov 26, 2005 5:18 pm

Hi Matt,if you brace your first sinew-backed,reflexed amd recurved bow for the first time it is really better to do it with care.
If you?ve got more experience with these bows,you will be able to do it with the step-through-method.
I brace even hornbows with the step-through or by bending them just over my knee.But it depends on the strength of the bow and the length of the siyahs.

Bede · Post by **Bede** » Sun Nov 27, 2005 3:57 am

Commenting on Arab Archery and Saracen Archery, they both mention step through bracing of bows, but I think that you must consider several conditions.

In the military context, bows would unlikely to be braced for the first time in combat. Usually the bow has been used and has probably relaxed its recurvature a lot. Secondly, the two books don't seem to be talking about highly reflexed and recurved bows most of the time. Some of the bracing methods would be impossible if the bow was highly reflexed (for instance bracing the bow while running by striking one tip on the ground).

Stephen's method with an assistant was known. The main difference is the bracer was sitting cross-legged on the ground instead of squatting or sitting on a chair. The modern Korean method is also mentioned where you sit cross-legged and brace the bow by yourself. I have found it difficult with bows over 50 pounds.

jack farrell · Post by **jack farrell** » Sun Nov 27, 2005 6:21 pm

Thanks Bede. What about stringing a bow in high water? Or stringing a bow by inserting it into the right sleeve of your garment and passing it out strung on the left. Just try that with a Korean bow.

I have not found traditional methods so difficult with strong bows as with longer bows. A Kazakh museum illustrates the Scythian method of kneeling on one knee and sitting on the other heel while stringing a Qing bow. One would need very long arms.

The ultimate challenge would to string a bow on horseback at a gallop. A military master! -j-

Bede · Post by **Bede** » Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:27 pm

Funnily enough, Jack, my main problem is the length of my arms. I have not had trouble using traditional methods on modern bows up to about 90 pounds, but highly reflexed bows are much easier to brace using the method that Stephen promotes.

I am making a pair of tepeliks at the moment so I can string the bow Adam made easily by myself. Set back handles make for difficult bracing on strongly reflexed bows. Narrow limbs are easy to twist, so I prefer more stable methods of putting the string on.

If I remember, one of those old books quotes another text with over 120 ways of bracing a bow. Learning all that would leave little time to practise shooting the bow.

jack farrell · Post by **jack farrell** » Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:40 am

Bede; Adam made you a bow? A flight bow? Please tell all. -j-

String bow

String bow

string bow