Yes, Jason, the string sits on the flap, and the flap is made of thin leather with the fuzzy side up. This provides enough friction so the string can be kept slightly away from the flesh of thumb (as Bede confirmed). This friction would not allow the string to get away while drawing, even though it is not pressed deep into the thumb. You will have a little better control in your release. This is what I found worked for me at one time.
Bear in mind this is a crutch, not a solution. I also wonder if you perhaps flex your thumb too much, so the string slips into the joint. It may be good to try flexing the thumb less, although it may be harder to do, if your thumb tip is not pressed into the middle finger (as in the Middle Eastern/Turkish style).
Adam
Proper Thumbring Position on Thumb ???
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Adam Karpowicz
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Bede
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Adam,
The rings I have looked at in the Grayson collection often have the skin side out. One even had two layers glued in.
One cause of the string sliding back on to the thumb is turning the wrist too far away from the face. This is more easily corrected by turning the wrist back until the fore finger lightly touches the arrow. If the physiology of the hand does not permit this, then your solution is a good one.
In general, you can feel whether the pressure is evenly distributed across the lip of the ring and adjust the hand slightly to keep it balanced. I turn the wrist slightly on the axis of the fore arm take pressure of the base of the nock when I want a fast arrow. I just have to be careful that I do not bring the tip of the index finger into the path of the string.
Some photographs taken just as the arrow was leaving the bow suggested to me that there is only a tiny gap between the thumb and the fore finger when the string escapes. The thumb appears to be forced out of the way as soon as the fore finger moves. The action is faster than the archer can straighten the thumb.
The rings I have looked at in the Grayson collection often have the skin side out. One even had two layers glued in.
One cause of the string sliding back on to the thumb is turning the wrist too far away from the face. This is more easily corrected by turning the wrist back until the fore finger lightly touches the arrow. If the physiology of the hand does not permit this, then your solution is a good one.
In general, you can feel whether the pressure is evenly distributed across the lip of the ring and adjust the hand slightly to keep it balanced. I turn the wrist slightly on the axis of the fore arm take pressure of the base of the nock when I want a fast arrow. I just have to be careful that I do not bring the tip of the index finger into the path of the string.
Some photographs taken just as the arrow was leaving the bow suggested to me that there is only a tiny gap between the thumb and the fore finger when the string escapes. The thumb appears to be forced out of the way as soon as the fore finger moves. The action is faster than the archer can straighten the thumb.
Bede
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Jason DuLac
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Matt Prickett
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Adam
Has you do I used the method discribed by Klopsteg, generally speaking index finger on the tip of the nail and in to the side of the middle finger. My thumbring is shaped enlogated style coming to a point. What I was wondering if you shoot the longer lip, becouse I still notice after a long shooting session the end of my thumb gets sore, the lip does not cover all of my thumb. But I do not believe it is from the string hitting it. For I am left with and impression of the ring where it stops. Now in his book he mentions about not having your ring to short or to long. Have you had this happen? I beleive what I should do is just make a ring with a longer lip. If you shoot with this type of ring does the lip cover the whole pad of the thumb?
Matt
Has you do I used the method discribed by Klopsteg, generally speaking index finger on the tip of the nail and in to the side of the middle finger. My thumbring is shaped enlogated style coming to a point. What I was wondering if you shoot the longer lip, becouse I still notice after a long shooting session the end of my thumb gets sore, the lip does not cover all of my thumb. But I do not believe it is from the string hitting it. For I am left with and impression of the ring where it stops. Now in his book he mentions about not having your ring to short or to long. Have you had this happen? I beleive what I should do is just make a ring with a longer lip. If you shoot with this type of ring does the lip cover the whole pad of the thumb?
Matt
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Adam Karpowicz
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Matt:
If I understand you correctly, you are having the ring's lip pressing hard into the thumb pad and the thumb tip getting sore. I think It may be because as you draw, the pressure of the string is mostly exerted on your ring's lip. Then the thumb's tip is pinched between the ring's lip and the index finger. I would try to relieve the pressure on the lip as much as possible. This can be done by making the ring fit more tightly onto the thumb in the vertical direction (tight against the sides of thumb's knuckle). It may also help to examine the inside of the ring - if the inside of lip is made concave for conform to the thumb's pad a ring with no such concavity could help to change the pressure points too.
It may also be that the index finger does not clear the thumb fast enough, so that the thumb's tip is pinched between the index finger and the ring's lip only when the string slides down the lip at the moment of release. You may try to improve your technique by making sure the index finger moves faster out of the way.
If the thumb's tip is not hit by the string on release, there is no reason to change the length of lip.
Adam
If I understand you correctly, you are having the ring's lip pressing hard into the thumb pad and the thumb tip getting sore. I think It may be because as you draw, the pressure of the string is mostly exerted on your ring's lip. Then the thumb's tip is pinched between the ring's lip and the index finger. I would try to relieve the pressure on the lip as much as possible. This can be done by making the ring fit more tightly onto the thumb in the vertical direction (tight against the sides of thumb's knuckle). It may also help to examine the inside of the ring - if the inside of lip is made concave for conform to the thumb's pad a ring with no such concavity could help to change the pressure points too.
It may also be that the index finger does not clear the thumb fast enough, so that the thumb's tip is pinched between the index finger and the ring's lip only when the string slides down the lip at the moment of release. You may try to improve your technique by making sure the index finger moves faster out of the way.
If the thumb's tip is not hit by the string on release, there is no reason to change the length of lip.
Adam
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Bede
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Matt,
If the tip of the thumb is left with an impression of the pointed lip of the ring, it seems to me that the shape of the lip is not suitable for the profile of your thumb and your technique.
The type of ring that Adam described earlier, like the ivory Turkish flight rings, would probably suit you better. The kind of ring I mean has more rounded edge to the lip when seen from above.
Adam's comment about hollowing out the lip of the ring to fit the thumb better will make a big difference. The shape of the ring affects which kind of hand position you can use.
If the tip of the thumb is left with an impression of the pointed lip of the ring, it seems to me that the shape of the lip is not suitable for the profile of your thumb and your technique.
The type of ring that Adam described earlier, like the ivory Turkish flight rings, would probably suit you better. The kind of ring I mean has more rounded edge to the lip when seen from above.
Adam's comment about hollowing out the lip of the ring to fit the thumb better will make a big difference. The shape of the ring affects which kind of hand position you can use.
Bede
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Adam Karpowicz
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I think I need to clarify what I said. I meant the rings witch have inside of lip hollowed out to conform to the thumb shape may not be desirable in this situation. A lip that is only rounded inside, but not hollowed out, may work better, because then the pressure tends to concentrate towards the base of thumb, not the lip. Whatever method relieves the pressure from the lip is good in this case. It is hard to say what is best without experimenting anyway.
Adam
Adam
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Matt Prickett
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Adam
It jsut so happens that the rings is not shaped for my thumb on the inside, I have found out in earlier rings it felt better not to. But with studing the ring contact on my thumb I would have to say for now that it is the pressure cousing it. But also the ring slightly snug at the knuckle, But I think their is enough room to wrap some silk around that area. So I'll give that a try.
Matt
It jsut so happens that the rings is not shaped for my thumb on the inside, I have found out in earlier rings it felt better not to. But with studing the ring contact on my thumb I would have to say for now that it is the pressure cousing it. But also the ring slightly snug at the knuckle, But I think their is enough room to wrap some silk around that area. So I'll give that a try.
Matt
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Stephen Selby
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Having been away, I've not been contributing as much as I should; but everyone seems to be on the correct line.
One point about techniques described in old books: often the strings used in those times were much thicker than those commonly used now. Things that would not have caused discomfort in the old days could be uncomfortable with light strings made using nine or ten loops of dacron or fastflight.
S
One point about techniques described in old books: often the strings used in those times were much thicker than those commonly used now. Things that would not have caused discomfort in the old days could be uncomfortable with light strings made using nine or ten loops of dacron or fastflight.
S
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Bede
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Adam has made a good point about the shape of the ring not conforming the the exact shape of the thumb. Rings from Turkey, Persia or India rarely had matching inner and outer curves. Instead the lips thickened towards the hole. This is the opposite of the Korean rings which are thicker towards the tip of the lip and thin near the hole.
I am talking about the majority of rings I have seen, but there are exceptions.
I am talking about the majority of rings I have seen, but there are exceptions.
Bede